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You will find French soups referred to as both soupe and potage. The word soupe originally referred to whatever you used to sop up the liquid in your bowl, and these days a soupe usually has things floating in it and is perhaps a bit more rustic than the more refined potage. Two classic examples that demonstrate this distinction are French Onion Soup, which is topped with toasted bread and cheese, and Potage St. Germain, a smooth split pea soup.

Some other terms that you may find useful in understanding French soups are:

Le bouillon: This is the cooking liquid in which vegetables, beef, chicken, or fish have been boiled. It is a concentration of flavors that serves as a basis for consommmés and potages.

Le consommé: A consommé is a bouillon of beef, poultry or fish, that has been clarified and garnished with other ingredients that may cook for a short while in the consommé. It is served at the start of a meal, and mostly reserved for long, special occasion meals. A consommé may contain truffles, morel mushrooms, asparagus or other delicately flavored vegetables. It might be flavored with Porto or a similar wine.

Le velouté: This is a smooth and creamy soup that has been prepared with a puree of vegetables. Cream, egg yolk, and/or butter are sometimes added to give more body to a velouté. Popular veloutés include mushroom, tomato, carrot, pumpkin, and leek or combinations of these vegetables.

La crème: This is an even more creamy and smooth soup. It usually features a good amount of heavy cream. Vichyssoise is an example of a cream soup. You will find cream of asparagus, cream of mushroom, and cream of lettuce. Some even more unusual creams include cream of watercress, cream of sorrel, and to my mind the strangest, cream of thistle!

La bisque: A bisque is a velouté made from lobster, crab or shrimp. It is usually enriched with cream and blended until smooth. Bisque is surprisingly spicy for French food and recipes may include some cayenne pepper or curry powder, cognac and white wine.

Other French Seafood Soups: You will find a variety of French seafood soups. Several regions have their own special version. Two well known examples are bouillabaisse, which features a variety of fish and is flavored with fennel and dried orange peel, and its cousin, bourride, which is commonly made from monkfish and includes lots of garlic. I couldn’t say exactly what region this yummy seafood soup featuring cream and scallops comes from, but it sure is good.

Rouille: French soups are sometimes accompanied by rouille sauce, which is made from garlic, peppers, bread, egg yolk and olive oil. This sauce gets its name from its color – rouille means rust. It is commonly spread on toasted slices of bread which you than float in the soup.

Pistou: This is another soup accompaniment found in Provence. It is made from basil, garlic and olive oil and is typically served with a vegetable and bean soup.

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This simple combination of potatoes, onions, and milk makes a deliciously creamy, chilled soup.

* T butter
* 3 c onion, chopped
* 1 t salt
* 4 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
* 4 c water
* 2 c milk
* white pepper
* 1 c heavy cream (optional)
* several T chives, chopped

Directions Sauté the butter, onions, and salt until onions begin to brown, about 15 minutes.

Add potatoes and water, bring to boil, cover, lower heat, and simmer until potatoes are cooked, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer to blender and purée until very smooth. Pour into bowl and add milk, pepper, and optional cream.

Chill and serve topped with chives.

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Lobster Bisque
Makes approx. 6 servings

Ingredients:

* 2 tablespoons Butter
* 1 cup Onion, minced
* 1 cup Carrots, minced
* 4 cups Lobster Stock*
* 4 tablespoons Flour
* 4 tablespoons Butter
* 1 cup Heavy Cream
* 1/4 cup Dry Sherry
* 1 tablespoon Lemon Juice
* 1 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
* 1/2 tsp. Cayenne Pepper (or to taste)
* Salt, to taste
* 1/2 lb. Raw Lobster Meat, chopped
* Fresh Chives, minced

Preparation:

Place the 2 tablespoons butter, onion and carrot in a sauté pan on medium high heat and sauté until soft. Reserve.

In a soup or stock pot on medium high heat, add the 4 tablespoons butter and begin to melt. Add the flour and whisk to form a roux. Turn heat down to medium and continue to whisk until roux becomes light brown (about 3 to 5 minutes).

Slowly add the hot lobster stock to the roux mixture, whisking constantly to insure that the mixture remains smooth. Add the sautéed vegetable mixture and allow mixture to simmer covered for about 1/2 hour.

Add the cream, sherry, lemon juice, Worcestershire Sauce, cayenne pepper, salt and lobster meat and simmer an additional 5 to 10 minutes. Garnish with fresh minced chives if desired.

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Lobster stock is a special item. It isn’t every day you get a chance to enjoy the richness of lobster meat, and with the critters being so expensive, every cook should have a recipe to make use of the leftover bodies and shells. This recipe is for lobster stock, but you can concentrate it and add a bit more salt to make a rich lobster broth, too. Use this as a soup base, or for a fantastic lobster risotto — or just have a cup of it on a cold day! This recipe make about a gallon of stock. It freezes well for up to 6 months.

Ingredients:

# Bodies and shells from 2-4 lobsters
# 4 T. olive oil
# 2 chopped medium onions
# 2 chopped garlic cloves
# 4 chopped celery stalks
# The tops from a fennel bulb, chopped
# 4-5 chopped plum tomatoes
# 1/2 lb chopped mushrooms
# 3 chopped carrots
# 1/2 cup white wine or dry sherry
# 4 T. chopped parsley
# 4 bay leaves
# Salt
# Water
# Cheesecloth for straining

Preparation:

Break the lobster shells into small pieces. Open the bodies and remove the gray, feathery gills. Remove the sand sac from between the eyes. Crush the bodies so they fit in a large stewpot.

Heat the olive oil in the stewpot and saute the onions, celery and carrots over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes. Add the lobster and cook for another 2-3 minutes.

Add the garlic, fennel and mushrooms, mix well and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Add the parsley, bay leaves and tomatoes, then the wine or dry sherry.

Mix well and cook until the alcohol largely burns off the wine, about 3-4 minutes. Add enough water to cover everything by 2-3 inches.

Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Simmer gently for at least 90 minutes. Add some salt and taste.

Cook until it tastes full-flavored, and then strain. Do this by turning off the heat, then grabbing all the big chunks with tongs and tossing them in the trash. Strain the rest through a fine-meshed sieve with a piece of cheesecloth set inside it.

Pour into quart-sized Mason jars or some other container. This will keep for up to 10 days in the fridge, or 6 months in the freezer.

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Chicken Stock or Fond de Volaille

Makes 3 Quarts

* 5 pounds chicken backs, necks, wings, or carcasses
* 2 large yellow onions, roughly chopped
* 3 celery ribs, roughly sliced
* 3 carrots, roughly sliced
* small bunch fresh thyme sprigs (7 to 10)
* small bunch parsley stems (12 to 15)
* 1 bay leaf, fresh if possible
* 12 black peppercorns
* 2 whole cloves or 4 whole allspice berries
* water to cover

Place the chicken pieces in a large stock pot. Fill pot with enough cold water to cover the chicken. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and cook for 10 minutes. Pour chicken and water through a colander. Rinse chicken under running water to remove any clinging scum. Rinse out the pot!

Place chicken back into the pot along with all of the other ingredients. Fill with about 6 quarts of water. Bring back to a boil over high heat. Once pot begins to boil, reduce heat to low and allow to gently simmer for 4 hours. There should barely be any movement in the stock. Adjust heat to maintain the gentlest simmer. This will ensure that the stock will be crystal clear.

Skim off any scum that rises to the surface of the stock. If the stock seems to be evaporating too quickly, add enough water to just barely cover the ingredients.

After 4 hours, remove the stock pot from the heat and strain out the solids. Strain the stock through a fine sieve to remove any little particles. Cool the stock and then refrigerate overnight. The next day, you can remove the fat that has risen and solidified on top of the stock. Do not throw this fat away, you can use it to fry potatoes! Return stock to the stove and reduce it to concentrate the flavors. I recommend reducing it until you are left with about 3 quarts of stock. This will give you optimal flavor and cut your reduction time in any sauces that you make with the stock. Cool the stock and refrigerate.

Stock may now be stored in the refrigerator for 3 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

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