The Chef's Cookbook » aspic history

Aspic Part II

TheSaltyChef — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:00:55 +0000

This is part two of my Aspic series, you can read Aspic Part I: History and Definition here.

The preparation of aspic jelly consists of several steps:

1. A stock must be made using gelatinous products such as veal bones, calves’ feet or pork skin.
2. The stock must be reduced and clarified with the addition of aromatic products such as vegetables, wines, and seasonings.
3 Finally, the jelly must be tested to determine its consistency when cold.

To elaborate on making classical clear aspic jelly, here is the recipe broken down.
The ingredients for this recipe involve using:
Veal bones, that are cut into small pieces.
Calves’ feet , split in half lengthwise
Pork skin
Veal shank
Beef chuck
water
carrots
onions
leeks, white portion
Celery
Salt, pepper and sachet bag.
Method for making the aspic jelly
1. Blanch the bones, calves’ feet, and pork skin. 2. Rinse well in cold water, place in a pot and add veal shank and beef. 3. Cover with water and bring to a boil.
4. Skim boiling liquid, then add all the vegetables and seasonings. Cook for five or six hours on low heat. 5. Pour stock through a strainer, cool and remove all fat.
6. Reduce stock to one gallon.

To clarify the single gallon of stock you have made you will need the following ingredients.
Beef, lean ground
Leeks, celery and onion (finely diced)
Egg whites
Cold stock
Madeira, port or sherry

Method for clarifying the stock
1. Mix beef, vegetables and egg whites well in a large pot, then add one gallon of the cold stock.
2. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.
3. Simmer for one half to a full hour and strain through a cheesecloth. 4. Add one and a half cups of Madeira, port or sherry wine. In order to know the consistency of natural gelatin contained in the gelee, refrigerate a sample. If it sets to desired consistency, the aspic jelly is ready to be used. If the jelly is to be used to make aspic molds, it is necessary to reduce the stock by half in order to achieve the necessary strength.
Variations
The above recipe produces clear aspic jelly with practically no color. A light to
dark golden aspic jelly can be obtained by using a brown stock. For this stock, brown the bones, meat and vegetables and proceed in the same manner described for clear aspic jelly.
For poultry aspic jelly, substitute chicken or other fowl bones for veal bones and
shank. A game aspic jelly can be obtained by using veal bones with game bones added for special flavor.
Whatever the aspic to be produced, it is only necessary to brown the appropriate
bones and then follow the recipe for clear aspic jelly.

Aspic Part I, History and Definition

TheSaltyChef — Sat, 01 Aug 2009 15:00:02 +0000

In todayâ€™s fast paced world, people often forgo the attention to detail or donâ€™t bother going the extra mile. Aspic is a less used classical art that was once used frequently. Many people believe that the name aspic comes from the serpent called asp, whose icy coldness recalls that of the jelly. However, this explanation seems to be quite far fetched. In truth the word derived from the Greek word aspis, which means buckler or shield. In fact, it was this form that the first molds were made. Others were made in the shape of a coiled snake, to probably justify the name aspic. Whatever its origin may be, the word aspic is applied to very different preparations such as foie gras in aspic, lobster in aspic, chicken in aspic, etc.

Jelly is a clear meat or fish stock which solidifies when cold, a virtue of the gelatinous substance contained in it. In earlier times, meat and fish jellies were prepared with hartshorn. Nowadays, these jellies are prepared in a more natural way, by including gelatinous bones in the stock or by adding a quantity of gelatin to it.

Aspic jellies are to cold cookery what consommÃ©s and stock are to hot cookery. If anything the former are perhaps more important, for a cold entrÃ©e. However perfect the cold entrÃ©e is, accompanying it with jelly or aspic always increases its appeal.

Jelly is obtained by melting the gelatinous substances found in certain meats such as: Veal shin, Pigs feet, bacon or pork rind. Jelly can also be made by adding powdered gelatin to a cooking stock. This method is not recommended but it can sometimes be used in the summer when the heat makes it too difficult to prepare certain cold dishes that are completely encased in jelly.

Chaud-froid however is a thick white sauce that usually coats meat or fish that has been poached or roasted, and then chilled with aspic coating the top. This preparation was once quite popular for elaborate buffets, but modern tastes have moved away from it for a cleaner, less altered flavors. Aspic can be used to coat meat or fish or it can be poured onto a platter and presented as a show piece for a buffet. People nowadays would probably appreciate aspic and chaud-froid more as an art piece than coating foods.

Aspic can also be used in food photography. Aspic gives a nice smooth, clear and shiny surface that works well for photographs. The process for making foods more impressive for photography involves coating whole hams, vegetables or other foods in aspic with room temperature gelatin and then chilling the food.

LOOK FOR MORE ABOUT ASPIC TO COME!